“The Cosmetic Victories”: a decade serving scientific innovation

Ten years of passion, research and _ innovation serving the cosmetics industry.
In this anniversary year, the international “The Cosmetic Victories” competition is confirming more than ever its vocation: highlighting the most promising projects in scientific research and technological innovation applied to the perfume and cosmetics industry.

A 2025 event focused on responsible innovation, Al and the cosmetics of tomorrow

Projects in the running this year are exploring exciting territory: natural ingredients, artificial intelligence, skin ageing, sensory perception and also digital twins. A jury of international scientific experts selected six finalists from 94 projects submitted, from 21 countries, on 4 March. What do they have in common? Proposing major breakthroughs applicable to the entire value chain of the sector, from the use of natural ingredients to optimise product performance to studying environmental impact on ageing, including, for example, understanding the product’s sensory and emotional impact.

This year confirms the central role of science in tomorrow’s cosmetics, in line with the 2025 theme of the COSMETIC 360 fair: A/ at the heart of innovation.

The members of the 2025 international scientific jury are:

• Neti Waranuch, Associate Professor at Naresuan University, Thailand

• Majella Lane, Director of the UCL Skin Research Group at the University of London, England
  Konrad Terpilowski of Uniwersytet Marii Curie-Sktodowskiej w Lublinie, Poland

• Roberto Rocca, POLIMI, Italy

• Lionel Ripoll at the Université de Québec, Canada

• Yuji YAMASHITA, Associate Professor at the Faculty of Pharmacy Chiba Institut, Japan

• Pr Zorita Diaconeasa, University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Cluj-Napoca,
  Romania

• Laurent Billon, Professor at CNRS, France

• Wen-Yin CHEN of Precision Healthcare and Nutrition Technology Laboratory, Taiwan

• Amandine Goubert, Director of Research & Innovation at Cosmetic Valley, France

The three finalists in the Industrial Innovation category are…all French, hooray!
(note that the first seven projects selected were also French)

• NETRI (France) – Neurons as sensors: a way of digitising human biology
  Thanks to its NeoBento™ platforms coupled with hiPSC neurons to innervate skin cells and the use of neurons as a natural biosensor of a biological effect, NETRI has managed to demonstrate that the digital signatures (recordings of neuronal activity) of different ingredients can predict their efficacy.
  Extracting the digital signature and comparing it with the digital signatures of the reference compound make it possible to predict the efficacy of any ingredient whatsoever.

• LORETTA (France): Creation of a nanometric Digital Skin Twin by AFM and Al
  Their project aims to create a Digital Skin Twin based on the skin’s nanotexture, by combining high-speed AFM and AI for ultra-precise analysis. Sponsored by a partnership between a company, a university and international dermatologists, a diverse panel of samples can be exploited. The goal is to link the skin’s nanometric characteristics to its chemical composition to revolutionise worldwide dermatological and cosmetic studies.

• BYOME LABS (France) – Rapid analysis of the skin microbiome and recommendation for a fully personalised beauty routine

Byome Labs offers a breakthrough innovation combining microbiology, immunology, genetic engineering and artificial intelligence. Their solution can measure and analyse the skin microbiome in under three minutes, directly at point of sale or in the surgery. Thanks to a system of antigenic strips and Al developed with dermatologists, their solution offers cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic brands a powerful tool for recommending products that are specifically compatible with each individual’s skin.

By democratising access to microbiome analysis, our solution promotes a more precise, sustainable and effective approach to beauty, whilst limiting wastage of unsuitable products.

The three finalists in the Academic Research category

• AGRICULTURAL SCIENCE DEPARTMENT – UNIVERSITY OF NAPLES FEDERICO II (Italy) –
  Lactobacillus-derived exosomes: a microbiota-friendly approach to antioxidant protection, skin
  barrier reinforcement and tissue regeneration

Exosomes, nanometric-sized extracellular droplets, are used increasingly in dermatology because of their ability to transport bioactive molecules. This project is looking at exosomes from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum, a bacterium found in the skin, which has antioxidant properties, helps to strengthen the skin barrier and encourages tissue regeneration. These discoveries could lead to new natural solutions for skin protection and repair.

• UNIVERSITY OF STANFORD (United States) – How does activating sensory neurones by using a cosmetic product modulate perception
  Sensory perception after applying a product is often reported subjectively. For example, the feeling of “tightness” in the skin after using a cleanser or “softness” after applying a moisturiser. We propose a quantitative approach that combines in vitro biomechanical tests, modelling neurone stimulation and
  a full in vivo study. The aim of this work is to demonstrate how biomechanical changes in skin after using a cosmetic product are involved in sensory perception.

• IBGC CNRS UMRS095 (France) – Natural protein instability as ageing biomarker
  The CNRS team is exploring an innovative approach towards measuring the impact of the exposome on skin ageing. Specialists in spontaneous degradation of proteins due to chemical reactions that alter their structure and function, the researchers wish to demonstrate that this phenomenon could serve
  as a precise indicator in assessing the environmental effects on skin. Identifying specific proteins like new ageing biomarkers could open the way to improved prevention and appropriate cosmetic solutions.

The official ceremony will take place in Paris on 20 May 2025

The six finalists will present their projects during a prestigious ceremony at the Maison de l’Amérique Latine in front of an audience of experts and professionals. Two prizes will be awarded: the Academic Prize and the Industrial Prize, each worth €10,000 and supported by COSMETIC VALLEY. ㅑnvitation to attend.

Feedback on ten years of scientific influence:
Since its creation in 2015 by COSMETIC VALLEY, “The Cosmetic Victories” has become a global
benchmark.
Over ten years, it has seen:
– more than 1,000 candidates
– more than 30 countries represented
– 54nominees and 18 prizewinners

At the heart of its mission: reveal talent, support research and promote the scientific excellence of the French cosmetics industry throughout the world.

ABOUT THE COSMETIC VICTORIES

Created by COSMETIC VALLEY in 2015 and supported by the endowment fund set up in partnership with ESSEC, the three objectives of the “COSMETIC VICTORIES” international competition are to detect innovative start-ups, support their projects and promote research. Open to any sponsor of an innovative project applicable to the perfumery-cosmetics sector, it awards two prizes.

The ACADEMIC RESEARCH PRIZE (projects from young graduates, PhD and post-PhD students, researchers and scientists)

The INDUSTRIAL INNOVATION PRIZE (projects from manufacturers, start-ups and innovating SME)

Six finalist submissions (three for each prize category) are retained by two selection committees made up of international scientific experts and sector professionals . The submissions had to sponsor innovation or research work applicable to all areas in the perfumery-cosmetics sector: ingredients, formulation, testing, process, packaging, chemistry, biotechnology, digital, distribution, new products and services. These innovations can come from the perfumery-cosmetics sector or a technological transfer from other sectors.

The prizes will be awarded by a reference jury tasked with picking two winners from the six finalists. Each of the two winners will receive a prize of 10,000 euros and the support of COSMETIC VALLEY.

The increasingly international applications, high standard of the projects submitted and quality of the members of the selection committee and jury brought together by COSMETIC VALLEY all contribute to boosting and raising the profile of the French sector worldwide.

[Sourced : Cosmetic Valley Press Beatrice Parrinello-Froment & Cyrelle Lafitte]